What Gemstones Really Sell in the U.S.?

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The United States represents one of the largest and most diverse markets for colored gemstones in the world, driven by a mix of cultural preferences, retail behaviors, generational trends, and commercial jewelry production.

However, to approach this market effectively (whether as a trader, cutter, investor, or retailer), one must go far beyond the general notion that “Americans like blue stones.”

The reality is nuanced, segmented, and constantly shifting, influenced by fashion cycles, the bridal industry, social media, gemstone origin narratives, and ethical sourcing demands.

This article aims to dissect the American colored gemstone market, offering clarity on what stones resonate, what colors sell, and where strategic investments can be made.

The American market is heavily retail-driven, dominated by both large chain stores (such as Signet Jewelers, Zales, Jared) and a growing number of boutique designers and online platforms.

Unlike in Asia, where buying gemstones can be seen as speculative or spiritual, the American consumer sees gemstones primarily as part of a finished jewelry product, particularly in engagement rings, fashion rings, and birthstone gifts.

This preference for mounted stones has two major consequences. First, calibrated stones in standard shapes (mostly oval and round) and sizes (5x4mm to 8x6mm for rings; 6mm to 10mm for pendants) are in high demand. Second, stones with strong visual appeal from a distance, such as vivid color, excellent brilliance, and minimal inclusions, are more commercially viable than those appreciated for rarity or geological curiosity.

In the U.S., color preferences are clear and relatively consistent across decades, though subtle shifts occur with fashion cycles.

Blue remains the dominant color across all categories. Sapphire (especially royal blue and cornflower blue) is the most desired colored stone for engagement rings, second only to diamonds. The American market tolerates some level of darkness, but overly inky or greenish sapphires are generally rejected. Australian sapphires often need selective cutting or re-orientation to meet U.S. visual standards.

Teal and Parti sapphires have undergone a remarkable shift in perception in the American market over the last decade. Once regarded as undesirable due to their bicolor nature, zoning, or lack of the "ideal" uniform blue tone, these stones have gained popularity (particularly among millennials and Gen Z consumers) who are driving a broader shift in values within the jewelry sector. I’ve personally witnessed this market surge in recent years, with demand for these stones skyrocketing across all channels. What was once niche is now driving serious buyer interest and competitive pricing.

Millennials increasingly reject standardized beauty in favor of authenticity and individuality. Teal sapphires, which often present a blend of deep green and blue tones, and Parti sapphires, known for their interesting mix of blue, green, and yellow, appeal precisely because of their uniqueness. No two stones are exactly alike, making them symbolic of nonconformity and personal expression, hence why they became key drivers in modern engagement ring culture. They’re especially popular in bespoke settings or paired with alternative metals like rose gold or matte-finished gold to further enhance their artistic edge.

These sapphires do not follow the traditional valuation structure based solely on clarity, symmetry, or saturated single-color hues. Instead, value is often driven by visual balance (how pleasing or "intentional" the color zoning looks), cut creativity, and how well the stone integrates into avant-garde or custom-designed jewelry. Jewelers and designers targeting this segment often promote the emotional and ethical storytelling behind each stone.

Unheated stones are especially prized in this niche. Unlike the mass market, where heat treatment is standard and often expected, this audience seeks raw authenticity. The absence of treatment suggests the stone’s natural state, which aligns with values around minimal interference and transparency.
Furthermore, traceability adds significant value. Montana sapphires, often available in shades of teal or light greenish-blue, carry a strong “Made in the USA” appeal, while Australian Parti sapphires are celebrated for their ethical sourcing and vibrant, untamed coloration. Mines in Queensland and New South Wales have contributed greatly to this niche market.

Despite the growing interest, the market for teal and Parti sapphires remains relatively small compared to the demand for traditional royal or cornflower blue sapphires. These stones do not appeal to consumers looking for timeless or investment-grade stones and are rarely featured in mainstream bridal catalogs or high-end commercial lines. Their pricing is also volatile, often based more on aesthetics and marketing than on standardized grading systems.

Pink and Padparadscha sapphires are highly sought after in both bridal and high-end fashion jewelry in the U.S., valued for their romantic hues and rarity. Pink sapphires, especially in vibrant bubblegum or vivid rose tones, have long been embraced as feminine yet bold alternatives to diamonds. Their appeal is amplified by their durability (9 on the Mohs scale), making them suitable for daily wear in engagement rings. Larger stones with strong saturation and minimal zoning command premium prices, particularly those from Sri Lanka or Madagascar.

Padparadscha sapphires, among the rarest and most debated varieties, are even more exclusive. The U.S. market is especially discriminating when it comes to these stones: the ideal padparadscha must exhibit a very specific balance of pink and orange, often described as a lotus blossom or sunset hue. Stones that veer too far into peach, salmon, or overly saturated orange-pink tones are often rejected by high-end buyers, especially if not certified by trusted labs like GIA or AGL. These reports are crucial, as the padparadscha label is frequently contested and misused.

Because of their rarity and the steep increase in pricing for top-quality, untreated stones, synthetic sapphires in pink and padparadscha hues have gained popularity, particularly among younger consumers. Lab-created options offer an accessible alternative with nearly identical chemical and optical properties, and they appeal to buyers who value aesthetics and ethics over collectability.

Emerald continues to hold a revered place in the American gemstone market, especially in bridal and high jewelry segments. Colombian emeralds, with their vivid green hue, medium tone, and superior transparency, are the most coveted. Stones from Muzo, Chivor, and Coscuez are especially prized for their rich color and balanced clarity. While Zambian emeralds also have a growing presence due to their availability and relatively lower cost, they often present a slightly bluish tint and are typically less transparent, making Colombian origins the benchmark for top-tier pieces.

American buyers show a comparatively tolerant attitude toward minor clarity imperfections; commonly referred to as the "jardin" or garden of an emerald, as long as the stone has good crystal and brilliance. This contrasts with markets like Japan and China, where buyers demand near-flawless clarity and are less forgiving of inclusions.

However, the U.S. market maintains strict expectations regarding treatment disclosure. Traditional oil treatment (using cedarwood oil or similar substances) is widely accepted, as it’s considered non-invasive and reversible. Still, transparency is key: Dealers must specify the degree of oiling (minor, moderate, or significant), often verified through third-party gemological reports.

What is categorically rejected by American high-end buyers are stones that have been dyed or filled with synthetic resins or polymers. These treatments are seen as deceptive and can dramatically lower both the value and long-term integrity of the emerald.

NB: for serious collectors or luxury consumers, untreated or lightly oiled emeralds with documented provenance from Colombia remain the gold standard.

The U.S. ruby market in 2025 remains robust, driven by a sustained demand for colored gemstones, particularly rubies. This demand is fueled by consumers' growing appreciation for the rarity and vivid hues of rubies, especially in high-end jewelry pieces. The U.S. jewelry market was valued at $73 billion in 2023 and is projected to reach $97 billion by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 4.1%. The ruby ring market alone was valued at approximately $1.5 billion in 2023, with expectations to reach around $2.5 billion by 2032, indicating a CAGR of roughly 5.8%.

Mozambique Rubies: Mozambique continues to be a leading source, supplying approximately 40% of the world's ruby production. These rubies are favored for their consistent quality and are widely accepted in the commercial jewelry sector, especially when heat-treated to enhance their color and clarity.

Burmese Rubies: Despite supply challenges due to political and economic factors in Myanmar, Burmese rubies, particularly those with the coveted "pigeon blood" hue, command premium prices. Their historical significance and unique fluorescence make them highly sought after by collectors and luxury consumers. However, buyers (and sellers) should be cautious when purchasing rubies from Burma, as many major international jewelry houses have ceased sourcing stones from this origin due to ethical and political concerns. To ensure transparency and market acceptance, it's strongly recommended to source rubies from RJC-certified companies (like us), which guarantee responsible sourcing and traceable supply chains.

Spinel is gaining strong momentum in the U.S. gemstone market as consumers become more educated about synthetic rubies and sapphires. This awareness has created a niche for natural, untreated stones; literally a space in which spinel thrives, especially in vibrant colors like hot pink, vivid red, cobalt blue, and lavender.

American buyers are increasingly drawn to spinel's brilliance, clarity, and affordability compared to traditional gems. Eye-clean, neon-bright (pink jedi color) specimens, especially those untreated, are in high demand among both designers and collectors. However, spinels in grey or overly dark tones struggle to gain traction, as U.S. clients tend to favor livelier and more saturated colors for statement pieces and bridal alternatives.

In the U.S. market, tanzanite has transitioned from a once-trendy gemstone to a steady, mid-tier staple, particularly popular during the holiday and gift-giving seasons. Though no longer the focus of major fashion trends or editorial coverage, it remains favored for its unique hue and perceived exoticism.

Retail sales are largely concentrated around vivid blue to bluish-violet stones above 1 carat, with strong saturation and minimal inclusions. These are typically used in pendants, earrings, and anniversary rings, often marketed as the “gemstone of transformation” or December’s birthstone. U.S. consumers associate rich color with quality, so pale or overly violet tanzanites (especially those under 1ct) tend to linger in inventory. Similarly, stones with visible inclusions, windowing, or uneven cutting struggle to move, even at discounted prices.

The American market places growing emphasis on ethical sourcing and disclosure. As most tanzanite undergoes routine heating to stabilize its color, full transparency about treatment is expected, and consumers generally accept it. There is modest collector interest in unheated tanzanites or rare color-change varieties, though these remain niche segments.

Department stores and mass retailers continue to feature tanzanite in seasonal catalogs, often in silver or lower-karat gold settings. Meanwhile, the higher-end market favors better-cut, saturated stones in classic solitaire or halo settings. Sales are strongest in the $500–$2,000 range for finished jewelry, with loose stones above $1,500 per carat requiring exceptional color and clarity to perform well.

In the U.S. fine gemstone market, Paraíba tourmalines are regarded as some of the most desirable and prestigious colored stones, often reserved investment-grade purchases. Demand is strongest for copper-bearing specimens that exhibit intense neon hues (particularly those ranging from vivid turquoise to greenish-blue) with a glowing, almost electric quality. These colors are the hallmark of true Paraíba material and are seen as a benchmark for quality.

Brazilian Paraíba tourmalines, especially those from the original Batalha mine in Paraíba state, command the highest premiums due to their extreme rarity and historical significance. In many cases, top-quality stones can reach $30,000–$50,000 per carat or more, depending on size, color saturation, and clarity.

Their scarcity and vibrant color make them the centerpiece of many bespoke creations by luxury U.S. jewelers.
That said, Mozambique-origin Paraíba tourmalines, introduced in the early 2000s, have also secured a strong position in the U.S. market. While initially met with skepticism, these stones are now widely accepted, particularly when they exhibit the same copper-induced fluorescence and neon glow that made Brazilian stones so iconic. However, the price gap remains significant, as Brazilian origin is still considered superior, especially among high-end collectors and auction houses.

There is growing scrutiny around mislabeling, especially with heated Mozambique stones marketed ambiguously. As a result, transparency in sourcing and certification is critical for dealers and retailers.
In terms of preferences, the U.S. market favors: bright, medium-tone neon colors with strong saturation, eye-clean clarity with minimal windowing or zoning, sizes above 2 carats, with large stones (5ct+) being exceptionally rare and desirable, untreated or minimally heated stones with full disclosure.

Jewelry designers targeting the American luxury segment increasingly use Paraíba as a focal point in high-concept, one-of-a-kind pieces, often pairing them with diamonds or other rare gems.

Spinel (especially neon pink and lavender) — underappreciated for decades, these stones are becoming mainstream. Supply remains limited, especially in larger sizes.

Unheated sapphires with gemological reports — the American collector market is becoming increasingly sophisticated. Unheated status is a significant value lever.

Fine-quality chrysoberyl (non-cat’s-eye) — increasingly rare and poorly understood by general consumers, but gaining traction in the high-jewelry design scene.

Rare garnets (Mali, color-change, and demantoid) — these remain undervalued relative to their beauty and durability, making them attractive for speculative buying.

Color-change stones (especially alexandrite) — high-quality Brazilian or Russian alexandrites are in low supply and high demand, particularly if they have strong daylight-to-incandescent shifts.

The U.S. is segmented, informed, and driven by both emotion and logic. Investment in this space requires a clear understanding of visual preferences (color, brilliance, clarity), cultural touchpoints (birthstones, bridal traditions), and the evolving digital landscape.

American buyers seek color that “pops,” stones that tell stories, and products that feel authentic. For traders and suppliers, this means offering not just inventory, but narrative, integrity, and precision.

Investing in the right stones is not about following hype, but anticipating where the American eye (and heart?) will go next.